How to Install LED License Plate Lights (62 cents a bulb)

License plate light replacement. LED light bulbs for your license plate gives your car or truck a modern look with the white light output. It is also slightly brighter which improves the look of your car. Replacing the license plate light is easy to do and way worth it. I purchased a pack of 8 LEDs for $5.

Benefits for using LEDs:
-longer bulb life (50,000hrs)
-uses less power
-daylight color temperature (white)

LED License Plate Bulbs (better ones): http://amzn.to/1OZlD9u

Project Night Light (LED Light Bar): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qp9L00SMSHQ
How to Wire Auxiliary Reverse Lights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVG7X-ae298
How to Remove Headlight Moisture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNWTidkxcmQ
How to Install LED Truck Bed Lights: COMING SOON

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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.

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34 thoughts on “How to Install LED License Plate Lights (62 cents a bulb)

  1. I put cheap LEDs on my tag lights, and only 3 years later, the left one went out, and the right one had some bad diodes. I later put Sylvania LEDs, and they're much brighter.

  2. Mine aren’t working at all on my 94 Mustang GT. I put LED bulbs in it and they don’t come on. I guess I’ll be tracing wires and find out where it’s not getting power. Almost wonder if the LED bulbs are sensitive to which direction they’re placed. I may be getting some new light pig tails

  3. DON'T use WD-40 for removing corrosion! Use a proper terminal cleaner, such as DeOxit, which is designed to remove corrosion from electrical terminals, clean connections, and lubricate.
    Use the sandpaper only if there is so much built up corrosion, you need to knock some off before using the DeOxit.
    WD-40 is not an electrical cleaner. It's a water-displacing oil.

  4. I actually like that you’re using LEDs for your car because one, they last longer than incandescent or halogens, and second, they draw less power.

    One thing to keep in mind is that because of the difference in load that LED bulbs take compared to either of the other two I mentioned, you might need to do more for your turn signals, and I speak from experience. When I was shopping at an auto parts store, I saw that one of the aftermarket accessories they sold were load resistors. I was curious about that and checked out the description on the packaging, and they’re meant to be attached to the same line as turn signals to take the kind of load required so the turn signal relay doesn’t act like there’s either no bulb in a certain socket or that a bulb burned out. I bought a set immediately with the LEDs so that I wouldn’t have to take an extra trip, and a test with the LED bulbs alone showed that I was right to get the resistors.

    For a while, after installing both the LEDs and the resistors, everything worked great until eventually the turn signal relay started acting up. The turn signals would turn on, but not blink at all unless the hazard flasher switch was used. After checking the fuses and doing some research, I determined that it was indeed the relay that had a problem. So after doing more research and pulling out the relay, I showed it to an employee at an auto parts store and he immediately led me to where the part was, and I picked out one that was actually compatible with LED bulbs. After installing it, I dared to try it out without the load resistors. Thankfully it actually worked, which meant that I could remove the resistors and save them for when I installed LEDs in one of my family’s other vehicles. The wiring in the car was resealed afterwards.

    So anyway, I told that story to bring up this point: If you’re going to use LEDs on your turn signals, whether or not the brake lights also function as the turn signal lights, make sure you get the necessary accessories in case they don’t work properly at first. Also, based on how confident you are about working on your own car, if said accessories are required, you can either add resistors to the wiring, which is easy enough, or you can leave the wiring alone and do research on your vehicle to find where the relay is and what model range it is before looking for the LED-compatible equivalent, assuming it exists.

    Other areas with a bulb most likely won’t need such modifications because all they do is direct current through a circuit without interruption (headlights, fog lights, brakes if they’re not attached to a turn signal, map lights, etc.).

  5. Hey guys ChrisFix here and today I'll show you how to change the plasma in your sun or any other star, from Earth using common heat resistant tools!

  6. Hi Chris. I've been following your channel for a long time now and enjoying it very much. You are very talented.
    I replaced the light in my Kia Picanto 2014 trunk and apparently got a malfunctioning LEDs because they got so hot they melt the plastic casing (it was quite dangerous as smoke started to form in the car, so the whole casing of the light is toast)
    How can I tell if I buy LEDs that they are good quality?

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